With Mt Everest shut down by Nepal, climbers dejected

New Delhi: Nepal government's decision to shut down Mt Everest for climbing has left dejected several Indian mountaineers, who paid huge sums of money for an opportunity to scale the world's tallest peak.

The decision to close climbing was taken after an avalanche triggered by the deadly April 25 temblor swept down the 8,848-metre peak killing 22 climbers and leaving climbers from various nationalities stranded at the Everest Base Camp.

Pradeep Chandra Sahoo and wife Chetana from Jamshedpur in Jharkhand faced disappointment for the second time when their attempts to conquer the peak were thwarted again this year.

Trained and mentored by Bachendri Pal, the first Indian woman to scale Everest, the climber couple's previous attempt last April was foiled when an avalanche killed sherpas and left others missing, possibly dead.

"It's a sad situation for mountaineers right now, especially for Indian mountaineers. Many of them take loans from the market or sell off their properties to climb Everest because funds and sponsorship for mountaineering is difficult to get," Pal said.

The Sahoo couple along with two climbers from Assam have now begun their descent from the mountain, she said.

"There are so many such mountaineers who must be heart broken with the decision of the Nepal government. But, safety is the main priority right now. My personal advice to the mountaineers will be to get down as soon as they can. Lives cannot be risked," Pal, who heads Tata Steel Adventure Foundation said.

Hopes have been dashed also for Anshu Jamsenpa from Arunachal Pradesh who hoped to set a Guinness Record for her attempts to ascend Everest twice within a span of 7 days.

The 35-year-old holds the world record of climbing the Everest thrice.

"Closing down expeditions to the summit is a loss for mountaineers. Anshu had given a royalty money of 2200 dollars for her double ascent permit. Till a few days back they were waiting to head up to the summit, but now are making an ascent down to Kathmandu," says Tsering Wange, President of Arunachal Mountaineering and Adventure Sports Association.

The total expedition cost for Jansenpa was Rs 35 lakh of which 14 lakhs was paid to the Nepal government for permit and liaison charges.

"We hope that the permit will be carried forward to the next season and we don't have to pay again. This decision will hit the sherpas second time in a row. The money which they make during the season sustains their families till the next season. So it is again a big loss for them," Wange said Everest has held intense attraction for climbers and trekkers from world over and many individual mountaineers take personal loans to climb the mountain. Couples, physically challenged individuals and others from Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities often approach veterans, corporates and institutions to fund their Everest climb.

"I receive a minimum of five to six calls every season from various people who want to climb the Everest. Most of them want to do it for the fame but providing funding to all becomes difficult," Maninder Kohli, Managing Trustee of Himalayan Environment Trust and an avid mountaineer who has just returned from the Annapurna Trek said.

Every year, Kohli said, almost 300 Indians aim to climb the Everest out of which 90 per cent seek support in terms of funding or sponsorship.

"The minimum cost per person is roughly about Rs 40 lakhs and includes expenses on sherpas, food, logging, oxygen tanks and other necessities," Kohli said. The 7.9 magnitude earthquake, aftershocks and subsequent avalanches wiped out all mountaineering treks, base camps and other infrastructure like ropes and ladders, required to scale the peak.

According to reports special teams of Sherpas, known as Icefall Doctors assigned by Nepal's Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) the massive damage on the Everest route, cannot be fixed for this season.

Sherpas themselves are bearing the brunt of the decision to close the mountain.

"I own a hotel on the way to base camp and after the government's decision this season again I will face a loss of minimum Rs 20 to Rs 25 lakh," Darshine Tsering Sherpa said.

Veteran mountaineers like Pal and Wnage said Sherpas make a good amount of money from the trekking operators.

"If the climb and capturing the summit is successful then they are paid a summit bonus between 800 to 1200 dollars. Closing the mountain will affect the Sherpas too," Wange said.