The R statement

Raghavendra Rathore is India's foremost name in bespoke luxury men's wear. Trained at Parsons School of Design in Manhattan, the designer has worked with DKNY and Oscar de la Renta before launching his own label in T994 under the Rathore Jodhpur brand.

His reputation for the classic tailored look and a sharp cut gave him access to a sophisticated clientele. His metamorphosis of the Jodhpur Bandhgala jacket and a "new cut for the classic Bandhgala Suit" has earned him a respectable place in Indian fashion history.

What took you so long to come to Hyderabad?
In a way, it was strategic business move. Around 6-7 months back, I opened a store very quietly to see the response.

Within a short time, it started yielding positive results, bolstered by which I thought it was a good time to introduce our store to all those not familiar with our brand. Being a conservative businessman, I did not want to open the store with a bang. I had to recalibrate.

We understood that Hyderabad’s yearned for something that was available in Delhi or Mumbai and here we are. I really believe that the potential of men’s wear here is immensely larger than what we have in metros.

Did you design your own store?
Well, it’s not a rocket science. We wished it to be out of the mundane, which explains the colourful vibrancy the ambience boasts of.

Moreover, as we do very classic stuff, I think the focus should be on the new collection with an overriding accent on colour because men wear is soberer to the women range.

What’s new from Raghavendra Rathore?
We added a real jewellery collection. This is the first time we are doing men’s wear; gold, silver and diamond jewellery that comes with customised accessories. After all, it is a bespoke store and not a retail one.

How comfortable are you with international collaborations?
Personally, I think that the real activity of the business is only happening in Asia. If anybody is fooling themselves that they will go abroad and make more profits, well it is time they woke up to the realistic scenario.

We will be in the position where people will invest in India. An occasional stint with a foreign brand is a good thing but a long-term partnership will make no business-sense because a bigger market waits to be tapped within India.

The clothes you design reflect Rajasthani charms. How difficult or easy it is to retain traditional lines without compromising on the contemporary look?
Firstly, it is not overtly Rajasthani. The collection comes from the regal epicenters like Jodhpur, Jaipur and Mysore.

Traditional lines with a modern touch can be quite challenging but then that is what the customers are looking for!

For example, they want kurtas that their fathers wore, but with a more contemporary chic elegance. One can change the cut and styling or change the embroidery, which is what entices them. Unfortunately, not all men like to experiment.

Who according to you flaunts your signature designs well?
I work a lot with celebrities like Saif Ali Khan and Yuvraj Singh, Harbhajan Singh. We go for customers with a touch of class and a taste for the classic.

We won’t target those who prefer polyester or diamond or embroidery on the chest. A customer who understands value for money in terms of style, classic look and royalty will be our preferred one.

What is your fashion mantra?
I think to me fashion has been constant. It is the style that we hear through sounds, bulletins and television. You know society changes every half-an-hour, I always believe fashion is a straight line but style is what one does to it.

Men face a crisis when it comes to accessorising. What is your advice?
Always dress to be comfortable, regardless of the event. There should be a thrust on seasonal to carry off one’s persona. We come across many who wear suits in summer!

Divide your wardrobe into three-day, evening and cocktail hour and wear them accordingly. Invest heavily in accessories that are the most important, like a good pen, belt, mobile and footwear. This changes the context of who you are and the personality very easily. If clothes make men, accessories help style them.

What is the present bridegroom trend?
The trend is to move away from heavy embroidery, almost classified as what people do on home cushions and home wear.

One has to be very careful. Too much of embroidery it is out-dated. I think a groom should not worry about matching their attire and dress sense with that of the bride. Go with the personality and stick to the colour that you believe suits you.

How can the bridegroom ensure that he is fashion updated?
When you are shopping for trousseau collection let’s say, your five-day function, it’s always great to start with your important outfit.

Once you sort that out, you should have lots of options. You should have 10 and not five flexible looks depending on the floor, how others are dressed up and also an idea about the likely guests.

You should have a good stylist, who understands the in-vogue jewellery that works best. The eternal charm of resplendent jewellery should get passed on to successive generations.