Celebrating workmanship of weavers and empowering them

The Indian handloom industry, with origins tracing back to around 2000 BCE during the Indus Valley Civilization, epitomizes a living tradition of aesthetic finesse, ecological sustainability, and cultural plurality. From ancient terracotta spindle whorls to contemporary Jamdanis, Chanderis, Ikkat, Brocades and Kanjeevarams, the handloom narrative is woven into the social and symbolic life of India.

As per the Fourth Handloom Census (2019–20), India has over 31.44 lakh handloom weavers and allied workers across 2.8 million households, underscoring the sector’s expansive and decentralized nature. Though handloom production today constitutes a small fraction of the overall textile market, it remains vital for rural livelihoods, gender empowerment, and sustainable development.

This piece revisits the contemporary state of the handloom sector, especially in the context of the 11th National Handloom Day, which is celebrated on August 7, and outlines strategies for its revitalization through digital integration and policy commitment. It situates discussion within the framework of constitutional obligations, international human rights instruments, and environmental sustainability, emphasizing the need to protect and empower traditional artisans in the era of climate change and digital disruption.

Historical significance, cultural anchoring:

The symbolic importance of handloom in India goes beyond economic metrics. It was central to the anti-colonial Swadeshi movement, led by Mahatma Gandhi, who elevated the charkha as an emblem of self-reliance and resistance.

National Handloom Day, first observed on August 7, 2015, commemorates the launch of the Swadeshi movement in 1905 in Calcutta. The aim of the celebration is to promote pride in indigenous textile traditions and to recognize the contributions of weavers in preserving the pluralistic cultural heritage of the country.

This year’s theme is “Weaving sustainability, empowering artisans.” There have been renewed calls for promoting eco-friendly, handcrafted products, expanding market linkages for weavers, and emphasizing the role of youth in safeguarding textile heritage through technology and innovation. To mark the occasion, the Development Commissioner (Handlooms) is organizing the Handloom Hackathon 2025 at IIT Delhi under the theme: “Dream it – Do it” from August 2-3.

Socio-economic status:

The 4th Handloom Census of India offers critical insights into the socio-economic profile of handloom workers. Of the total weaver and allied workforce, 72 per cent are women, reflecting the sector’s role in rural women’s employment. However, about 67 per cent of these workers earn less than ₹5,000 per month, indicating deep-rooted economic vulnerability. Additionally, only 17 per cent of households reported access to institutional credit, and a mere 11 per cent were linked to cooperative societies—an alarming indicator of economic marginalization. The census also shows that over 84 per cent of handloom units are operated from weavers’ homes, which presents both an opportunity and a challenge.

While many weavers possess traditional skills inherited over generations, formal training in design, innovation, and marketing remains limited, further constraining their growth potential in an increasingly competitive global textile economy.

The export economy:

Despite its domestic challenges, the Indian handloom sector maintains a modest yet significant presence in international markets. According to data from the Ministry of Textiles, handloom exports stood at ₹1,693 crore between April 2021 and February 2022. This includes exports of home furnishings, fabrics, scarves, and floor coverings, primarily to countries such as the U.S., the U.K., Germany and France.

These figures are reflective not only of the sector’s potential in niche markets but also of the increasing global demand for ethical and sustainable fashion. Export growth, however, faces obstacles such as standardization issues, inadequate branding, and logistical bottlenecks. There is a pressing need for integrated handloom clusters, streamlined export facilitation centers, and digital marketing platforms that can directly connect rural artisans to global consumers without layers of exploitative intermediaries.

Handloom weaving stands out as one of the few large-scale industries in India that has a minimal ecological footprint. The process consumes negligible electricity and does not rely on fossil fuels. Fabrics are predominantly made from natural fibers such as cotton, silk, wool, jute, and linen, many of which are dyed with organic colors.

The low-energy, low-waste nature of handloom makes it inherently aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly Goal 12 (Responsible Consumption and Production) and Goal 13 (Climate Action). This sustainability dimension becomes even more critical when juxtaposed with the global fast fashion industry, which accounts for nearly 10 per cent of global carbon emissions and 20 per cent of wastewater. By contrast, handloom products, though slower in production, embody principles of circular economy, durability, and ethical labor—all vital for addressing climate crises and social inequities simultaneously.

Constitutional framework:

The handloom sector’s continuity is not merely a matter of economic policy but a constitutional imperative. The Directive Principles of State Policy, enshrined in Articles 39, 41, 42, 43, and 47 of the Indian Constitution, mandate the state to secure livelihood, ensure humane working conditions. Article 43 explicitly calls for the promotion of cottage industries on an individual or cooperative basis.

Moreover, international human rights instruments like s the Universal Declaration of Human Rights (1948) and the International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) affirm the right to work, fair wages, and cultural participation. Handloom artisans, often experience multiple layers of socio-economic discrimination. Strengthening their position, therefore, is essential for advancing not just economic justice, but also pluralism and inclusion.

Considering the sector’s multifaceted significance, it is imperative to devise a comprehensive revitalization strategy rooted in pluralist values and sustainability. The digital revolution, rather than being viewed as a threat, must be harnessed as an enabling tool. Digital literacy campaigns, especially for women weavers, can facilitate participation in e-commerce platforms such as GeM, Amazon Karigar, or Taneira. Skill development must go beyond loom operation and encompass design innovation, brand storytelling and inventory management. NIFT and IIHT can foster collaborations between students and weaving clusters.

Furthermore, schemes such as the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) and Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS) must be rigorously implemented with thrust on transparency and accountability. There is also a need to integrate handloom promotion into broader rural development and tourism policies, with incentives for heritage mapping, community exhibitions, and educational campaigns in schools and colleges. The handloom sector is not merely a relic of the past, but a living, breathing embodiment of India’s cultural diversity and sustainable ethos. On this historic day, let us not just remember the past, but actively shape a more inclusive and ecologically resilient future, commitment to a plural society that honors both heritage and innovation.

(The writer is Assistant Professor (Sociology) at Banaras Hindu University, Varanasi. Views expressed are his personal)