Guwahati lab weaves trust into Assam’s silk legacy

Hyderabad/Guwahati: Women invest heavily in silk sarees, traditional attire that can cost several thousand, and even lakhs of rupees, yet many consumers end up buying counterfeit silks available in the market. In response to multiple instances of fake silk sarees making their way into Assam, a dedicated Silk Testing Centre in Garchuk, Guwahati, validates the authenticity of silk for just Rs 100.

Silk, often regarded as the queen of textiles, is a symbol of luxury. However, with the rise of synthetic fabrics, distinguishing genuine silk from imitations has become a crucial skill. The high value of authentic silk sarees, especially Assam’s ‘Muga silk’ highly prized for its luxurious feel and natural sheen makes them a prime target for counterfeiters, who profit greatly by selling synthetic imitations as premium silk.

The Silk Testing Centre, spearheaded by the North Eastern Handicrafts and Handloom Development Corporation Limited (NEHHDC), is a crucial step in protecting consumers who invest large sums. The quality of the silk is checked by staff who hold diplomas and degrees in Clothing and Textile Technology.

At this centre, one can effortlessly determine authenticity for just Rs 100. A lab technician noted that weavers apparently resort to unfair means for profit, such as mixing Tussar (a cheaper variety that resembles Muga silk), polyester, nylon, or rayon with Muga and selling the finished product to some traders in Assam as pure Muga silk, which customers buy believing it to be the pure silk of Assam.

Anika, a twenty-seven-year-old technician at the facility, said that the service helps consumers who spend thousands of Rs, or even lakhs, on traditional attire from being duped. The consumer also receives a certificate on the product’s authenticity tested at the laboratory. “If silk is pure and genuine, we provide a certificate, and other quality is mentioned as fake,” she added.

The laboratory is prepared to conduct three types of tests physical, microscopic, and chemical within minutes for any consumer or trader who wants to verify the authenticity of the fibre as per Indian standards, which are also recognised internationally.

M Sarika, another technician, explained that the initial step, the burn test, involves setting a small piece of the saree on fire; if the smell of burning hair is noticed, it confirms the silk is genuine. The second method involves immersing the silk in a chemical, as real silk dissolves rapidly in this substance. Lastly, when the saree is examined under a microscope, the threads’ weave appears uniform in thickness, parallel, and smooth.

Mara Kocho, Managing Director of NEHHDC, said the facility was established in 2023 and has issued quality certificates for 30 lakh sarees to date, with an average of around four hundred silk pieces tested daily.

The Managing Director said the lab is meant to prevent the use of duplicate material in the weaving process and restore confidence among buyers in the silk products, especially Muga and Eri silks of Sualkuchi.

Moreover, Mara Kocho highlighted the Corporation’s strategies to strengthen the handloom ecosystem in the region, including the role of NEHHDC’s Eri silk spinning plant in supplying high-quality yarn to artisans and detailing targeted interventions undertaken to empower local weavers, create sustainable livelihood opportunities, improve market access, and preserve the rich cultural heritage of the Northeast. He emphasised that handlooms and handicrafts constitute an essential part of the lifestyle and identity of indigenous communities.