During Milan Fashion Week, Prada's Fall-Winter 2025-2026 menswear collection, co-designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, captivated audiences with its raw, cinematic appeal. The collection offered a mix of rugged textures, feminine flourishes, and innovative designs, standing as a testament to the power of creativity and humanity during difficult times.

Unveiling Primitive Detailing

Prada’s runway featured distinctive detailing, with raw shearling fashioned to appear as though torn directly from the source. These elements were cleverly incorporated into outerwear lapels and patchworked into garments, delivering a primal, almost untamed aesthetic that stood out among the more traditional faux fur collars.

Design Philosophy: Instinctive and Human

The designers aimed to create pieces that felt warm and instinctive. Simons described the collection as both “savage” and “beautifully domestic,” capturing the essence of humanity in a raw and authentic way.

Cinematic Inspirations

While there were clear cinematic undertones, Simons clarified that the references weren’t tied to any specific film, director, or character. Western influences were evident through scuffed cowboy boots and knitwear resembling a wrangler’s shirt, though the collection avoided creating caricatures.

Floral and Feminine Touches

Prada invited men to embrace subtle femininity, incorporating jewelry like bracelets with mini basketballs and baseballs, as well as floral-themed chains and amulets. Floral patterns also adorned faux fur-lined hoods, while cowboy boots bore delicate floral designs.

Silhouettes and Style

The collection balanced skinny, rock-and-roll-inspired satin trousers with relaxed volumes, such as pajama-style tops and slightly distressed sweaters. Shirts were often replaced with fine knits, emphasizing an effortless and instinctive approach to dressing. A standout look included straight-leg jeans paired with a striped knit top and floral cowboy boots, capturing the collection's boyish essence.

Fashion as a Form of Resistance

Miuccia Prada emphasized that the collection aimed to inspire optimism and hope during challenging times. Humanity, passion, and romance were celebrated as tools for resistance against oppression. The creative effort itself, according to Prada, serves as an act of defiance and positivity.

Runway Setting: Contrasts and Progress

The Prada Foundation’s Deposito art space was transformed for the show, featuring Art Nouveau carpeting and a runway constructed on raised scaffolding. Simons explained that the setup symbolized contrasts and the concept of work in progress, aligning with the collection's themes.

Emerging Trends

Key trends included:

Shirtless suits.

Layering with dual puffers.

Primitive raw shearling collars.

Men’s jewellery and floral accents.

Cowboy boots reimagined with intricate designs.

Star-Studded Front Row

Prada's front row brought together a global mix of talent, including British actor William Gao, South Korean actress Kim Tae-ri, Chinese table tennis star Ma Long, and others. Fans gathered in large numbers to cheer for the celebrity attendees.