Christies's Collecting Guide: Hermes handbags

From the Birkin to the Kelly, an expert introduction to the bags created by one of the world’s most famous fashion houses

1. See quality as an investment

‘Working from its Paris ateliers, Hermès is the only major fashion house producing leather goods which continues to stitch by hand, using the celebrated saddle stitch, which has come to be known the world over,’ explains Caitlin Donovan, specialist in Handbags and Accessories at Christie’s. It takes between 30 and 40 hours to produce the most cherished Hermès models, such as the Birkin.

A Fuchsia Ostrich Birkin 35 Bag. Hermès, 2011. Estimate: $17,000-20,000

2. Accessorise like a legend

Every Hermès model is a legend. Created in 1935, the Kelly bag has become part of the brand’s genetic code, having shot to fame when it was carried by Grace Kelly in 1956 — the celebrated actress using the bag to subtly hide a stomach rounded by pregnancy. From that point on, the Hermès ‘travel bag with strap’ was rechristened the ‘Kelly’ in honour of the Monaco princess. Subsequent models include the Hermès Birkin, named after actress and singer Jane Birkin.

A Black Calfbox Leather Sellier Kelly 35 Bag. Hermès, 1994. Estimate: $5,000-7,000

3. A Hermès bag can be a work of art in its own right

While Hermès remains faithful to its roots, it’s also a brand that is constantly innovating. In 1992 Hilton McConnico became the first artist to modify a Hermès bag, when he reimagined the traditional Kelly — an unenviable task given the bag’s geometric shape — to transform an already celebrated bag into a unique design piece.

A Parchemin Swift Leather Kelly Flat 35 Bag. Hermès, 2008. Estimate: $3,000-5,000

4. A brand aware of its roots

Before becoming renowned for its handbags, Hermès was the go-to brand for fans of horse riding,’ explains specialist Cyril Pigot-Kessler. ‘When it came to producing saddles, Hermès was at the top of the game.’ A number of the brand’s models have reflected this history, with large bags providing enough space for riding hats or boots — all of which are still made by Hermès today.

A JauneCourchevel Leather Farming Bag. Hermès. Estimate: $3,000-4,000

5. For a bag that’s unique, consider limited editions

Almost 180 years after its foundation, Hermès continues to surprise — as limited-edition series such as the ‘QuelleIdole’ prove. Popularly known as the Kelly Doll, the playful bag — produced in 2000 and conceived by Jean-Louis Dumas, the former chairman of the luxury brand — featured eyes, arms and feet.

A RubisTadelakt Leather Ghillies Kelly 35 Bag. Hermès, 2012. Estimate: $7,000-9,000

6. Colour is everything

When buying an Hermès, it’s important to consider both material and colour. The brand is known for signature shades, with more than 100 available to choose from. Reds — whether fiery, bright or deep-blood tones — have become legendary; blues are available as rich turquoise, deep-blue marines, or soft sky; pinks range from shocking to the shade of a light lipstick; greens come in olive or rich chlorophyll shades, such as ‘vert céladon’. Then, of course, there’s the ‘So Black’, on which everything, from the leather to the handles and lining is a deep noir, making it the epitome of elegance.

A Special Order Horseshoe JauneD’or&Potiron Epsom Leather Birkin 35 Bag. Hermès, 2014. Estimate: $8,000-10,000