The dichotomy of beauty and power

The Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) Summer/Resort 2016 hosted a special preview of Manish Malhotra for his upcoming haute couture collection, titled ‘Elements’ in Mumbai on Friday. Ahead of the main show, the designer speaks on his collection, the move from movies to focusing on taking his brand global

It has been 25 years since renowned designer, Manish Malhotra started as a costume stylist and 10 years since he created his label. His latest collection, ‘Elements’ holds a special place as it marks both the culmination of a journey and the beginning of a new design story for the ace designer.

Ahead of the Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) Summer/Resort 2016, the designer speaks on the collection, Bollywood and more.

What made you use life experiences for design aesthetics?
The collection is based on elements of nature. I recently shifted into my new home, which is surrounded by trees and nature and I believe it’s very calming, relaxing and soothing. The dichotomy of beauty and power present in the four elements – Earth, Water, Wind and Flame, is much like the play of confidence and demureness; tradition and glamour that we see in a contemporary bride.

Tell us about the collection…
It is Spring-Summer haute couture. So, it has a lot of emphasis on easy cuts and styles. This is my 11th year and the collection is glamorous and has global influences. It is all about festive celebrations and summer weddings. Mixing the unexpected is what I thrive on and this season you will see it in our richly embellished gowns, lehengas with trails, breezy jumpsuits and structured tops and blouses. Each outfit presents a dreamy allure. There are layers of fabulous organza and crepe in pastel hues of baby pink, powder blue, light green and orange giving the collection a dreamy allure.

Many say that Indian celebrities try too hard to raise the fashion bar on international platforms – what is your take on that?
I believe Indian celebrities are doing great internationally and have increased the fashion bar on international platforms. Priyanka Chopra looked fabulous at the Oscars.

You are one of the few names who changed the meaning of fashion in Bollywood in the past 25 years as a costume stylist. How does that feel?
My journey has been overwhelming and humble. I chose the path for the love of Bollywood and films. I introduced styling and redefined costumes in movies - from putting together looks to shopping internationally. I had set a trend in movies and down the line, I feel I have enjoyed the process immensely and now, it is time to focus on my label ‘Manish Malhotra’. I have completed 10 years of my eponymous label and now the focus is to take it to the next level by expanding the brand globally, presenting innovation in my outfits, working with heritage crafts and craftsmen and much more.

What are the biggest trends in Indian wear line?
The biggest trends are lehenga skirts with trails paired with crop tops. My new collection for LFW is Indian in aesthetic and essence, but has global and modern influences in the form of cuts and styles. Lehengas with trails, breezy jumpsuits and structured tops and blouses are the trends for this season.

The ‘Made in India’ trend has caught the fancies of politicians and designers alike with many artistes promoting Indian textiles and heritage. How do you see this helping the lives of craftsmen who are fighting for basic livelihood?
I feel it is great news that designers are working toward reviving Indian textiles and heritage weaves. I have been visiting weavers from Banaras, Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh and what I have seen is amazing! I want to use a lot more handloom in my collections. ‘The Regal Threads’ was my first collection crafted using this new design language and it has received a phenomenal response.

Quick bytes

Essentials in a bride's trousseau?
Go traditional and revive the grandeur of an era gone by with legacy weaves and fabrics.

Jewellery for bride?
Depends on the outfits. Statement pieces with Polki and uncut diamonds work wonders.

Your starting idea when you work on an outfit?
I am happiest when a woman wearing a Manish Malhotra outfit can be herself and have fun on her special day! Be it using unusual colours or adding a heritage spin to a modern silhouette, my muse is the wearer’s personality.

Season's trend for fashion conscious boys?
As with every season, I will also present a capsule for grooms in the collection. For Spring Summer, I have crafted sharp jackets and kurtas, tailored pants and churidars in blue and ivory for the gentlemen for a refined look.