Goldsmiths fight a losing battle

Hyderabad: “What do you make, O ye goldsmiths? Wristlet and anklet and ring, Bells for the feet of blue pigeons, Frail as a dragon-fly’s wing, Girdles of gold for the dancers, Scabbards of gold for the king,” that was written by Nightingale of India, Hyderabad’s very own Sarojini Naidu way back in 19th century.

But bazaars of Hyderabad have no more of them busy making ornaments for the trusted customers. Yes, traditional goldsmiths have been eclipsed in a big way and those are still in the profession have gone back to dingy, narrow by-lanes taking orders from big players who forayed into gold business and set up huge malls and exclusive stores selling magnificent jewelleries to uptown customers.

Forming just 6.72 percent of total population of united Andhra Pradesh, a large number of goldsmiths have moved away from the tradition, with the emergence of hallmarked jewellery and other developments in the post-liberalisation era. They are now working as watchmen, auto drivers, electricians and plumbers.

Sitting in his congested backroom workshop of a small rented house in the tapered lane of Kali Kabar in the old city of Hyderabad, Murali, a 38-year-old traditionalgoldsmith told this correspondent, “We are only very few in the family still continuing with this profession. Most of them are working as security guards, auto drivers or electricians.

We are the last generation of traditional goldsmiths and none in the entire community is encouraging the new generation to carry on the tradition. The centuries-old profession is dying a slow death.” Traditional jewellers in Hyderabad are confined around Char Kaman, Gowliguda, Siddiamber Bazaar, Dilsukhnagar and certain pockets in Secunderabad.

It is hard to believe for the older generation, but the fact is only around 2,000goldsmiths in Telangana are into traditional jewellery making.

Developments in the post-liberalisation era, fast-changing market trends and customer tastes have contributed to the eclipse of traditional goldsmiths in the city as at other places in the country. Hundreds of goldsmiths in the city have faded away and the few who remained reluctant to change are fighting a losing battle. “We give guarantee to our products. Our business is based on trust. Still customers are carried away by huge advertisements and hallmarked jewelleries. I work for some big showrooms but I don’t have direct dealings with them. Agents get me business. And this is far from fetching. I don’t encourage any younger ones to learn traditional jewellery making,” said Murali.

“A total of ten hours of work for a month fetch only something between Rs 12,000 and Rs 15,000. So the new generation is seeking other jobs where they can earn more without much effort,” said S Siva Kumar Chary, another goldsmith of Amberpet in Hyderabad.

Around 400 local goldsmiths in the city and a few Bengali goldsmiths are now catering to the corporate malls in the city. According to a study by A Rama Devi, who did a research on gem and jewellery enterprises from Andhra University, the traditionalgoldsmiths are against hallmarking of their jewellery as they believe the hallmarking concept is not comprehensive.

By: Payam Sudhakaran