WARP AND WEFT: Demand for Narayanpet sarees rekindles hope among weavers

Hyderabad: In the midst of dwindling wages and the art of weaving, which has not been passed down through generations, a glimmer of hope prevails as weavers experience a surge in demand for Narayanpet sarees which were once called ‘Garments of the Gods.’

Narayanpet district in Telangana lies in the border between Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka, is notable for its cotton and silk sarees whose origin can be traced back to the 1630s. The weaving technique of these sarees is unique, as many sarees are manufactured on the loom at once. The first step includes dyeing cotton yarn, which is shade dried before being loaded on the loom. These are handwoven sarees, made with the interlock-weft technique. These sarees can be found in dual shades with contrast pallu and border. Narayanpet sarees feature top quality weaving and distinctive checked designs with intricate ethnic motifs like temples on borders and pallu.

Speaking to The Hans India, C Janardhan, CEO, Chitrika Artisans Producer Company Limited (CAPCL), says, “In the modern times, despite the ongoing demand for Narayanpet sarees, the insufficient income and the strenuous nature of weaving persist. Additionally, adverse weather conditions pose a significant hurdle to the weaving process, prompting many weavers to emphasise the need for consistent and timely execution of this labor-intensive craft.”

CAPCL has also embraced modern techniques to design its products, aligning with the evolving trends of the changing times. As we continue to weave and promote these sarees, we have established centres in various locations including Narayanpet, Mandapeta in East Godavari, and Devaravalasa in Srikakulam districts of Andhra Pradesh, he added.

The Narayanpet region was once under the rule of the Maratha king, Chhatrapati Shivaji where one can notice a lot of Maharashtrian influence in the weaves. The fusion of Telangana and Maratha style is noticeable in these sarees. These famed sarees and fabrics have been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, giving a brand identity to the craftsmen.

A photo artist, Raghu Mandaati, joined forces with ten skilled Narayanpet weavers. In a creative endeavor, he procured their exquisite sarees and embellished them with intricate lepakshi temple prints sourced from the TASRIKA label. As a heartfelt gesture, he then presented these beautifully customised sarees back to the very weavers who had crafted them. Raghu Mandaati captured the essence of the artisans’ lives through a documentary film titled TASRIKA, supported by Department of Language and Culture, government of Telangana. This insightful film showcases the weavers as they elegantly adorned the sarees they had painstakingly crafted, brilliantly highlighting the inherent beauty of these exquisite garments.

Kavitha, head, Kavidhara Handlooms and Handicrafts Producer Company Limited says, “Our primary focus revolves around preserving the traditional Narayanpet design, which is regrettably diminishing in its allure amidst the modern era. The number of skilled weavers proficient in this craft is dwindling, with only a handful remaining. It is imperative to safeguard the authentic essence of this saree’s traditional aesthetics, even as we embrace modern techniques, ensuring that the cherished art form endures through time.”

A vibrant rural enterprise ‘Arunya’ in Narayanpet with Self Help Groups (SHGs) women as partners, stakeholders and managers providing direct connect to buyers online. Ashwin, Chairperson, Arunya, said, “Amidst the challenging backdrop of the Covid-19 pandemic, our initiative was launched in 2020 with the invaluable support of former Collector Harichandana. Notably, Narayanpet sarees are experiencing a notable surge in demand within the current landscape, which brings us great satisfaction and joy.”

Amidst the challenging backdrop of the Covid-19 pandemic, our initiative was launched in 2020 with the invaluable support of former Collector Harichandana. Notably, Narayanpet sarees are experiencing a notable surge in demand within the current landscape, which brings us great satisfaction and joy.

The rich heritage of Narayanpet Silk sarees dates back to the reign of the Lokapalli Samasthanam. Over time, the originality and traditional borders of these sarees have started to fade away. It saddened me to see different designs being sold under the name of Narayanpet sarees, diluting their true essence. Motivated by this realization, I made it my mission to revive the old traditions and showcase the authentic beauty of Narayanpet.

Raghu Mandaati captured the essence of the artisans’ lives through a documentary film titled ‘TASRIKA.’ This insightful film showcases the weavers as they elegantly adorned the sarees they had painstakingly crafted, brilliantly highlighting the inherent beauty of these exquisite garments.