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Though Irani chai is an essential part of Hyderabadi culture, patronising flavoured teas is the new vogue. Despite umpteen choices, Irani chai fans can’t just be lured away
"Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cozy, doesn't try it on," once said the famous Scottish artist and musician Billy Connolly. Most Hyderabadis vouche for it, for tea, especially Irani chai, along with biryani, is very much part of their DNA. Its very sight kindles serene feelings and caving looks are cast as it is brought on. It is rightly said that tea cups cheer but do not inebriate us.
Even on a hot summer day, a cup of Irani chai, albeit piping hot, is what a typical Hyderabadi would be after. In solitude or company, it becomes your ardent companion for a few minutes, changing your mood for the better and puts that smug looks on your face.
One more, for some many, would not be odd in an Irani chai outlet. If not at home or place of work, Hyderabadis would be at their favourite haunts, ensconced as they are in wooden chairs, indulging in animated conversations, discussions or sparring over this tea - for hours. No one would ask them to leave.
Sipping an Irani Chai itself is just a hobby and, a pleasure too, for many even now. Young and old alike can be found savouring cup upon cup of chai anytime of the day. Even after the advent of coffee, its popularity did not wane.
However, as everything changes over time, different varieties of chai are invading Hyderabad as it becomes a cosmopolitan city, with people of various cultures making it their home.
Now, several types of chai are available in the city, including smoky-flavored Tandoori Matka Chai, Kashmiri Chai, Masala Chai, Black Tea and Lemon tea. Latest entrant among them is the 'Zafrani Chai' (Saffron Tea). These flavoured teas are weaning the new generation away, as they always are prone to experiment.
But, unlike Irani chai, flavored chai is not sold in regular hotels or cafés and are available in customized cafes. Masala Chai, Black Tea and Lemon tea are now available in every locality, but the customised Tandoori Matka Chai, Kashmiri Chai, Zafrani Chai are available only in some parts of the city including Mallepally, Malakpet, Mehdipatnam, Tolichowki, Madhapur, Jubilee Hills, Banjara Hills and some other areas.
In recent years, after Irani Chai, Masala, Black and Lemon tea (which is usually prepared only in houses occasionally) have made their space in Hyderabadis, now at least for the last 2 years these tea varieties tickling the taste buds of Hyderabadis.
A year ago, the people were making beelines for a smoky-flavoured, tandoori-styled chai, commonly known as 'Tandoori Matka Chai' typically served in Makta or clay glass. Now they are making similar queues at hotels serving Zafrani Chai. A few months ago, in addition to its menu, Pista House and Kabul Darbar started serving Zafrani chai with garnishing zafran petals in a cup for Rs 20.
"To sip the Zafrani Chai I have come all the way from Hi-Tec City to Tolichowki to check out if the chai that is being served by Pista House is worthy or not. But I did not return disappointed. I loved this," said Mohammed Nayeemuddin, while sipping a cup of zafrani chai in Tolichowki.
"I am not a chai lover, I usually drink coffee. But since the Zafrani Chai is available I started drinking chai," said Anil at a Café in Shaikpet.
Pista House known for its Haleem has also included the tea variety in their menu and selling thousands of cups of at their outlets across the city. "On an average basis about 250 grams of Zafran is used to make 6,000 to 8,000 litres of tea every day," said Mohammed Abdul Majeed of Pista House.
He said about 4,000 to 6,000 cups of the saffron tea are sold per day at different outlets of Pista House in Shalibanda, Malakpet, Tolichowki and JNTU. Kabul Darbar at Tolichowki, are also serving zafrani chai and getting a similar overwhelming response.
"After having lunch and dinner at home, I visit the hotel for drinking Tandoori Chai, as it helps in the digestion of food due to its ingredients like coffee, elaichi (cardamom), sount (dry ginger), jaiphal (nutmeg)," said Mohammed Ansar, a 63-year-old resident at Mallepally.
Is Irani chai disappearing? Most of the denizens say that, "Chai means only Irani Chai, all others are just a flavored hot drinks." Irani Chai cannot just be substituted with others, says Mohammed Minhajuddin.
Several chai lovers said that Chai is everything and it can't be replaced with any hot drink. "I drank different types of chai including Masala Chai, Kashmiri Chai, Tandoori Chai, even Zafrani Chai, but drinking Irani Chai gives a taste and also relaxation.
It is different from all other chai and can't be replaced or compared. Chai should be chai not with any flavour," said Sana Khan, a chai lover.
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