Mandu: A mesmerising monsoon getaway

The road to Mandu from Indore was bumpy, to begin with, but gained in smoothness as it reached the destination. Mandu is a small town, home to only about 20,000 inhabitants (mostly tribal). But it has long been famous as a perfect monsoon destination. And its claim to fame is quite justified.

Because during the rains, the place and its surroundings acquire, a sheen of green that is a tad complicated to complement. Even the valleys below are said to be home to idly floating clouds that nest during the rainy season.

After checking into the Malwa Resort (run by MP Tourism), which we had booked previously, we set off immediately in search of the grandeur that personifies the place. Jahaz Mahal was, of course, the first on the list. I was dying to see the structure which, as the name suggests, is shaped like a ship. And it really lived up to our expectations.

With lakes on either side – the Moonj Talab and the Kapur Talab; Jahaz Mahal is really a visual treat. The monument still boasts of an excellent rainwater harvesting system as devoid of groundwater, this hill-top town depended on rain for water supply throughout the year. Talk of combining beauty with utility!

The essence of Mandu gets sweeter by the love story of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati. The legend goes that during the early sixteenth century, Baz Bahadur, the ruler of Mandu fell head over heels in love with Rani Roopmati, the daughter of the king of Dharampuri. The love between Baz Bahadur and Roopmati blossomed and the later was subsequently brought to Mandu.

The romance that Mandu is famous for is best felt at Roopmati Pavilion. Originally an observation post for the army, the upper quarters were converted into the abode of Rani Roopmati. There were two advantages for Baz’s consort – from here she had a bird’s eye view of her lover’s palace and secondly, she was able to view the Narmada, which flowed in the valley below.

Rani Roopmati was a devout worshipper of Narmada and would partake in her daily meals only after a darshan of the sacred river. But sometimes many days would pass, especially in the monsoons, when she was not able to have the darshan because of the thick cloud cover.

This did not allow her to have her meals for long periods. Then once she had a divine dream that the waters of Narmada were also present in a pool of water near the palace. That pool of water is now known as Rewa Kund.

Roopmati Pavilion is by far the most interesting spot in Mandu, and not only for the love angle. The views from here are too fascinating to be believed. Far stretches of hills, vales, plateaus, forests and the undulating stretches of green, presents a wide array of scenic views that charm the heart.

The view below is dented by a strong presence of mist that hangs in the air with stubborn resilience.
Our next points on the itinerary were the Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah’s tomb. Both are examples of brilliant architectural designs, which are reflected in high plinths, huge domes and a wide arrangement of arcs and pillars.

Hoshang Shah’s tomb is also believed to be the precursor of the Taj Mahal since architects were sent by Shah Jahan to have an understanding of how to build a magnificent mausoleum. We also visited Hindola Mahal, a swinging palace with a plethora of small rooms, baths and other cosmetic paraphernalia to keep all the queens in good humour.

We are also treated to the sights of the Echo Point, where a simple shout passes through a building, and another, right up to the mountains and boomerangs back in an instant in a loud and clear echo. Much physics seems to have gone into deciphering this. Our guide says that this was a great help during times of war when the sounds from the horses’ hoofs reverberated to provide indications of an impending attack.

As one goes deep into the process of absorption of the magic that is Mandu, one is left baffled at the sheer magnitude of the edifices that had been created in medieval times. Home to India’s finest examples of architecture, Mandu is sure to captivate you with its spell-binding structures while the gateways (darwazas) reverberate with the history of imperial conquests.

A walk through Mandu is sure to leave you awe-struck, the way you used to be in your childhood when listening to stories from grandparents.

By: Sriparna Saha