Khada Dupatta: A tale of bridal glory

Creativity behind the label 'Ideebs London', a brand that has over the year's cemented top spot place amongst Hyderabad's leading Fashion couture house is fashion designer Aaliya Deeba.

Elegant and stylish clothing designer Aaliya pursued her fashion designing at London's Central Saint Martin and returned to India to expand her designer studio. Her collection is a combination of intricate traditional embellishments, flattering silhouettes and attention to detail. Each collection is conceived with glamour, grace and versatility in mind. 'Ideebs' this year launched casual ready to wear diffusion line and in future they are planning to launch an e-store where customers across the globe can purchase pret designs. Aaliya has expanded her label and created an effective and influential place for Ideebs London in the fashion industry in a short span of 8 years.This label has an eye on international fashion and its heart in real, accessible clothes make the wearer feel confident and radiant. Modern or traditional, heavily worked or elegantly embellished, haute couture or ready to wear designsanything you desire to purchase is at Ideebs London.

Hyderabad-based fashion designer Aaliya Deeba spoke about her participation at Bangalore Fashion Week in an interview with The Hans India. She designed a new style of traditional 'Khada Dupatta' with multicolour and new drape styles and showcased it at the fashion show. "I had an interest towards traditional wear since childhood. Being a Hyderabadi, we always get to hear about the beauty of 'Khada Dupatta' on women, mostly during wedding seasons. My inner feeling felt that I must design and present this dupatta to the world," says Aaliya.

'Ideebs London' boutique represents styling of 'Khada Dupatta' and introduced first time commercially. Aaliya says, "The speciality of our 'Khada Dupatta' is that we use multicolour combinations, instead of red. We realised that styles need to be changed based on client physical requirements, this was done for other type of dresses but not for 'Khada Dupatta'. This led us to experiment with new water hand craft techniques to enhance the fashion appeal of our brides based on the physical and personal client requirements."

Talking about the detailing of 'Khada Dupatta' Aaliya says, "The basic 'Khada Dupatta' is Kurtini (Tunic) and was changed to a combination with a gathered jacket, then we changed to uneven hemlinekurtini and paired with gharara."

"In the early 17 century Turkish and Persian craftsmen were invited to India by Noor Jahan to craft noble dresses. That became the noblewomen dress when Begums of Nizam modified and created the style of 'Khada Dupatta' with Kurtini and a jacket. You can see that original creation in London Museum. Although original dress was not complete red, overtime the choice for bride was very limited to red and uninspired crafting. The original style was to wear dupatta with inner kurti and a long jacket," adds Aaliya.

About the craft technique used for designing 'Khada Dupatta' she says, "Zardosi is the main hand craft technique which is used in traditional and ethnic 'Khada Dupatta' border. Previously gold and silver metal wires were incorporated with precious stones and precious resham threads by noble women. We need to consider client requirements and based on that we incorporate techniques and precious metals."

New embroidery patterns inspired by Persian architecture that contains both floral and geometrical patterns along with playing with motif sizes were designed at 'Ideebs'. "This pattern creation is quite difficult particularly when sometime people need to be trained on the new techniques.Our dupatta borders are more than 25 meters while other normally have 18. Based on client requirements it can go up-to 35 meters depending on the brides requirement. We give a complete look of 'Khada Dupatta' using same craft and cloth for creating 'Potli' and 'Jutti' for brides. We created bridesmaid 'Khada Dupattas' as well where sister's and cousins want to wear to compliment with bride," shares Aaliya.

Aaliya says, "If a client wants something creative and personalised, they need to have two-three months for designing customised dresses. This is common is western countries where brides plan months ahead but now brides in India are becoming familiar. This will allow them to plan their dress based on their dreams, personal choice, and requirements. Having right set of dresses for client ready in bulk is not possible in our line particularly when different craft and colour is used."

Her suggestions to those who are interested to design customised design for their wedding, should consult fashion designers before finalising to get the best dream outfit. She says, "You must try different styles, colour and combination.This would give a feel of magical experience. We do this for our clients where your experience of making dress will become a lifelong treasure and you are sure to get your dress that exceed your expectations."

Talking about Aaliya's latest collection, she says, "Our latest collection "Sheenaz-E-Aroosa" celebrates bridal glory. All our ensembles are inspired by the rich culture and heritage of India and unique blend of embroideries. Every piece is unique, extremely, luxurious and splendid. Our latest lavish bridal collection 2021 bring your richly layered with intricate embroideries and artisanal embellishments dipped in to festive hues features many masterpieces and majestic design for this winter festive season. Seamless ensemble enriched with floral motifs and homochromatic details. The meticulous weaving uses zardosi, kardana sequin, pearls and beads."