Kakinada mangroves calling

Formed in the delta and estuary region of the river Godavari, the sanctuary is spread over an area of 235 square kilometres and contains nearly 65 species of mangroves besides an array of exotic flora.

The Goutami Express dropped us at Kakinada quite early in the morning. After a quick freshen up session, we took the road that led out of the town and ran over a river which shared its name with the train that had brought us here. The sight of fishing boats lined up against the banks lifted our spirits, but the accompanying pungent smell of sea fish promptly forced us to fish out for handkerchiefs.

The relaxing ride on the smooth highway bordered with green paddy fields soon ended as the auto abruptly took a turn and entered a narrow and bumpy village road. Soon we were at the gates of the Coringa Forest Department Post. As the best way of exploring the mangrove forest is by boating in the numerous creeks crisscrossing the sanctuary, we headed towards the waterfront.

To reach the jetty we had to trek through the jungle for almost a km on an elevated bamboo platform which had been erected as the place gets flooded during high tides. The entire walk soaked in greenery and freshness looked straight out of a dream. On the way, we came across love birds (of the featherless variety) that had arrived here from nearby towns and villages to spend some special moments with their special ones.

Our boat set sail. Both the banks were carpeted with lush green mangroves. It seemed as if the mangrove forest acted as the boundary for the water body; for all we could see were only trees and water with no real shore to speak of.

“The backwaters here are extremely shallow, hardly five feet in depth. At some places it is even less than two feet!” Venkat, our boatman pointed out as we approached what appeared from a distance a cluster of entangled mangrove trees. As we got closer, a tiny passageway opened up, inviting us into the wonderful world of mangroves. Though our boat managed to squeeze through, in some places we had to bend and assume an almost horizontal pose to prevent the onslaught of green.

A really incredible experience! The boat ride took us along the river as it opened out into the sea. It was a beautiful sight to see the river bound on both sides by mangroves, suddenly fanning out into the sea. At Coringa there is also a lighthouse which is over 200 years old. Dilapidated yet bursting with character, the only way to get to the place is by boat during low tide. A climb to the top rewards one with a panoramic view of the mangroves adorned with a thousand hues of green. We unfortunately couldn’t get to the lighthouse as it was high tide time.

Our final stop was at a deserted beach beyond the lighthouse. At first glimpse, the beach seemed very different from any other that I have seen before- the shore was full of dead tree stumps that gave the beach a ghostly and haunted character. A few waders were running around on the beach and I could spot a few large gulls in the distance, including Pallas’ Gulls. A beautiful black-capped kingfisher swooped in and out of the water's surface, as many flocks of birds suddenly took off without warning, in the process churning out synchronised flying patterns in the sky. It was an absolutely fabulous sight.

An hour later as we were returning to Kakinada, we realised that Coringa is one of those typical low-profile places which you approach without much expectations. But in the first encounter itself, the place provides an experience that remains entrenched forever in memory.