Land of sun kissed beaches & heritage

Lush greenery, blue skies, silver sands and enormous waves lashing the coast.... Goa the smallest state of India attracts nearly three million tourists both domestic and foreign each year. Visitors make a beeline to the many beaches, places of worship and world heritage architecture that define it.

Casinos, pubs, water sports and quaint Old Portuguese buildings add to the allure, while the rich flora and fauna framed by the Western Ghats make it a biodiversity hotspot. Goa in the monsoon is just as sought after, as it is during the season (December-February) I realised looking at the number of tourists landing at the Dabolim airport from different destinations across India.

Chaotic scenes at the airport due to limited parking space, stray dogs hovering around and lack of greenery in the vicinity of an otherwise green state, however, are the first impressions greeting visitors here. Just a year-and-half after its commissioning, the airport is beset with problems. The runways are to be made safer, business lounges upgraded and the general tardiness and lack of proper planning to meet the needs of passengers from various destinations addressed.

The airport administration is gearing up for a ‘makeover’ for the BRICS summit, one of the biggest events ever to be organised in this coastal state from October 15 this year and hopefully the 900 VIP delegates from China, Russia, Brazil and South Africa are expected to attend the two-day event will see a cleaner and greener airport that is more orderly and reflective of the rich culture of the state.

The Mandovi and Zuari rivers, the main lifeline of Goa, the many bridges and water tanks on the way and the activity in the Mormugao harbour, one of the best natural harbours in South Asia enthral visitors who come under the spell of the Konkan magic.

People hurrying by with colourful umbrellas tucked under their arms opening them as the showers descend unannounced are a common sight during the monsoon, which lasts till September. There are indications of the summit to come, every now and then as we see roads and pathways on the main arterial roads getting a cosmetic makeover. Boards and posters to keep ‘Goa Clean’ can be seen around beaches like Baga, Calangute, Anjuna and several other places but they are either unread or ignored.

The private beaches around the hotels and resorts, which are restricted to residents, are however a picture, in contrast, presenting idyllic conditions to holidaying guests who can afford the luxury. There is a wealth of heritage beyond the silver sands and sun-kissed beaches in Goa that are crying for attention.

Goa has two world Heritage sites: the Bom Jesus Basilica and churches and convents of old Goa. The Basilica, which holds the mortal remains of St Francis Xavier regarded by many Catholics as the patron saint of Goa is situated opposite the building of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and is a site that is under its care.

Sadly, the missing alphabets in the plaque stating that it is a world heritage monument reflect the state of affairs and as one enters the main complex signs of decay and disarray welcome you at every step. Moss covered walls, peeling paint, dust and grime inside this imposing building, are appalling indications of neglect and decay in our institutions. What is the ASI doing with all the funds entrusted to maintain these beautiful structures?

Is this how world heritage structures are preserved? Similar is the state of many Portuguese style buildings that seem to have been abandoned and left to decay. The surroundings around many beautiful temples like the Shanta Durga, Mahalakshmi and Mangeshi temples are equally disturbing. The yellow and orange coloured temple complexes with beautiful idols can do with a lot of cleaning up externally to match up to the inner grandeur.

These temples were said to be originally under Portuguese influence but rebuilt as per indigenous requirements in the sixties. Goa has a rich cultural heritage that has somehow largely been ignored with its image of a ‘party place’ and a bohemian haven overshadowing its diversity. This vibrant land blessed by nature will hopefully develop ‘state of the art’ infrastructure with the BRICS summit as a focal point transforming it into a world-class tourist destination.