Godavari Pushkar: Cradle of culture and civilisation

The purple headed mountain and the river running by, all have a place in nature’s scheme of things but the reference to mountains as “male” and rivers as “female” in the Indian sacred texts is not entirely without intent it seems. Sturdy, unshaken mountains standing tall may go by the male tag but beautiful, meandering, refreshing waters that nurture life have been feminine with the exception of the ‘Brahmaputra’. As birthplaces and cradles of civilisations bringing to life nature, trade, culture and art in a manner that is eternal and flowing like their swirling waters, rivers are feminine in charm, allure, sweep and nature. All world civilisations like the Mesopotamian, Egyptian or Indus Valley have been located either on the banks of a large river or in close proximity to it.

The Godavari too has seen the rise and fall of great civilisations around its banks that provide both sustenance for the body and nourishment to the soul. The river, which originates in Trimbak in Maharashtra, however, traverses the Telugu states and reaches its ultimate destination at Yanam, and the picturesque Antharvedipalem, in Andhra Pradesh, where it joins the sea (Saagara Sangamam). The great southern city of India mentioned by Megasthenes, the Greek explorer in his travelogue is said to be ‘Kotilingala’ on the banks of the Godavari at Karimnagar in Telangana, which was the first capital of the great Satavahana kings. Another great dynasty, the Kakatiyas ruled not far from its southern banks. Excavations here revealed coins with the seal of ‘Simukha’ the first Satavahana Emperor, and trade with the Sumerians and Europeans about 2,500 years ago. An advanced civilisation with a planned drainage system, canals, mud wells and terracotta beads also came to light due to the efforts of archaeologists. Two great literary works ‘Brihat Katha’ in the local Paisachi language by Gunadhya and ‘Gadha Saptasathi’ by Hala the 18th King of the Satavahana dynasty in Prakrit are great literary works that emerged from the enlightened civilisation that flourished on the banks of Godavari.

A famous verse from the ‘Aranya Kanda’ of Kamba Ramayana has Rama sighting Godavari after walking through dense thorn filled forests.“Look brother, here is the Godavari, lying as a necklace on the world, nourishing the rich soil, rushing over waterfalls, flowing through five regions in clear cool streams like a good poet’s verse,” says Rama, who recalls that Godavari been described by poets as one of the most beautiful rivers on earth, even more beautiful than the Ganges.

“The earth bears the river like an ornament but the river is more than a sparkling jewel. Like two hands cradling the land, its banks support pious Brahmins, who recite the great epics, Puranas and write sacred books about the different stages of life, dharma, mantras and oblations. The Godavari feeds the five landscapes (Panchavati) and flows like a poem with sound, beauty and motion,” Rama adds.

The dense forest region around Bhadrachalam, echoes with the name of Rama because of the time spent here during the “Vanavasam (exile to the forest). The “Gautami” a tributary of the Godavari was the chosen spot for the great temple for Rama and many beautiful compositions in his honour by his devotee Ramadasa, who expressed his devotion through immortal kirtanas like “Sree Rama naaman maruvam maruvam” (We will never forget Rama’s name).

Moving to the place, where the river Godavari makes its presence most beautiful at Rajahmundry, known as Rajamahendravaram at the peak of its glory under the great Eastern Chalukyan ruler Raja Raja Narendra, and one sees its shimmering waters dazzle under silver moon beams and its waters rising up to proclaim a majestic presence as “Akhanda Godavari” (The unbroken one). Godavari later splits into seven streams in this region named after the seven rishis. The “Sapta Godavaris” dotted by amazing greenery unravel locales that are a feast to the eyes.

Raja Raja Narendra’s advisor and court poet, Nannayya Bhattaraka, also known as “Adi Kavi” (first poet), translated 142 verses of the ‘Mahabharata’ from Sanskrit to Telugu. Nannaya’s distinct literary style, metre and grammar embellished Telugu literature and became the starting point for many great works that followed.

The Godavari provides an extensive navigable irrigation system and the Dowaleshwaram barrage links the Krishna river delta to the South east. Agriculture and trade flourished in the region leading to a new affluent middle class dominated by agriculturists and merchants who encouraged education, fine arts and culture. The area under British patronage opened up new vistas in education, painting, music and poetry. Both original and dubbed versions of English plays staged under British influence led to the use of paintings as artistic backdrops. Several art enthusiasts came together inspired by OJ Couldry, a British Officer, who worked as the Prinicipal of the Government Arts College, Rajahmundry. An eminent artist himself, Couldry inspired painters like Damerla Rama Rao, Adavi Bapiraju, CB Rao, VV Bhagiradhi and others to pursue their talent and start the Andhra Society of Indian Art. His scholarly work “South Indian Hours” depicts art, culture and practises inspired by the Godavari. The famous novelist, playwright, poet and painter Adavi Bapiraju apart from his great ‘Kinnerasaani’ paintings for the Jananpith award winner and great poet Vishwanatha Sathyanarayana and the ‘Enki Paatalu’ of Nanduri Subba Rao, wrote a beautiful poem which describes the glory and grandeur of the Godavari whose tempestuous moods dictated the way of life in the region. Particularly beautiful are the lines

“Adavi chetlannini, jadalona thurimindi,

Oollu dandalu gucchi mellona, daalchindi.”

(The river Godavari wears trees from the forest around its braid and has strung together a garland of villages to adorn its neck)

The joyous Godavari flowing pleasurably, the angry tumultuous river that cannot be contained, the placid waters that lose identity on reaching the sea.... the cleansing eternally flowing cradle of civilization (jeevanadi) worshipped as one of the holiest rivers, the muse of poets. Godavari in all its forms never ceases to be a poem in motion.

Aruna Ravikumar