A twin that scores

Mention of Hyderabad brings into mind images of onion-shaped domes, rising minarets and old-world charm but its twin Secunderabad hardly gets a mention. It is often seen as a supporting cast to the capital. But Secunderabad has its own charm and compliments its counterpart in every way

If Hyderabad is known for its tehzeeb, Secunderabad is famous for its Angrezi habits. If one wants to hear pure Urdu and soak in the old-world charm, a trip to the Old City is a must. Tucked away in a distance on the other side of the Musi is Secunderabad, a city that has its own identity, not that of the Nawabs but more akin to the British legacy.

Separated by Hussainsagar and just a few kilometres from each other, people’s mannerisms, choice of clothes and cuisine are as different as chalk and cheese. Even the names of roads are interestingly different. If Hyderabad boasts of exotic street names such as Shamshergunj, Gosha Mahal and Pahadi Shareef, Secunderabad has English sounding names such as James Street, Walker Town and Penderghast Road.

Even migration to other countries is starkly different. If the Rizwans, Qadris and Imrans headed to the Middle East in the late 70s and early 80s for better opportunities, the Williams and Davids from Secunderabad went to England, Australia and Canada.

It is possible that one may bump into an old man in the alleys of the old city who would prefer to be addressed as Nawab and chances are that he would claim some connection with the erstwhile rulers of Hyderabad. While a walk down Lalaguda or ‘Little England’ as it is called, if you are lucky, you may bump into one or two Anglo Indians who would vouch for their English connections and blue blood.

The distinct ways of both the cities are evident even in their architecture. Great mosques, minarets and onion-shaped domes dominate the skyline in Hyderabad, while spires, churches and age-old schools run by Christian missionaries’ dot the skyscape in Secunderabad.

It should be added, though the twin cities have distinct identities of their own, Hyderabad always hogged the limelight while Secunderabad has quietly stood behind its illustrious neighbour lending support to the historic city.

Today, tourists, writers, novelists and researchers scramble to Hyderabad to its various monuments. Secunderabad too has its share of admirers especially from England who keep coming here to trace their ancestors who served in the British Army and lost their lives here, who lay buried in the numerous cemeteries in and around Secunderabad.

Hyderabad has a distinct Muslim influence, whereas Secunderabad is more cosmopolitan. There is Sindhi, Parsi, and Anglo-Indian colonies in Secunderabad. Even the food habits here are quite different. Breakfast in Hyderabad is a non-veg affair, one can see people savouring Chakna (stew with chunks of liver and kidneys), Nahari (trotter soup) with Kulcha (bread) and another favorite is Kheema and roti. Just a couple of kilometres away in Secunderabad, toast, black coffee, upma and dosas find a place on the table.

Most Mushairas and Qawalis are held in the old city of Hyderabad, whereas Army officers, Anglo-Indians and Parsees living in Secunderabad head to clubs and dance away the night. Even to this day, on Christmas and New Year eve, the recreation club in Lalaguda springs to life and one can see men and women in the best of suits and costumes. Some old timers who migrated to Australia and England come to celebrate Christmas with cousins and friends.

Both cities seem so distinct from each other. But have not been at loggerheads. Both have grown in their own unique way, without overpowering or influencing the other.

By T P Venu